An Irish Country Barmbrack (Irish Fruit Cake)

If you've read any of the "Irish Country" novels by Patrick Taylor, you know how charming they are, a rare window into a specific time and place unlike any other. You also know the two main characters are no strangers to excellent food, prepared in large part by their housekeeper, Maureen "Kinky" Kincaid. Her good self, as well as her cooking, merited a collection of her recipes, An Irish Country Cookbook. After all, if Hercule Poirot can have an obituary, why shouldn't Kinky have a cookbook?

This traditional barmbrack, or "spotted bread," is typically made at Halloween, but since we all love being Irish for a day every March, I was keen to make it this spring. Heavy on the currants and raisins, with a bit of orange zest for freshness, this fruited cake is a little holiday all on its own!

Irish Barmbrack

Ingredients:
2 cups dried fruits (I used currants and raisins)
1 cup brewed black tea
1/4 cup whiskey (see notes below)
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon spice mix, optional (such as chai spice mix or pumpkin pie spice)
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 large egg
zest of one orange

In a large mixing bowl, combine dried fruits with tea and whiskey, cover tightly and let sit overnight.

When ready to make the next day, butter a 7- or 8-inch round baking dish (at least two inches deep), and preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Stir together flour, baking powder, salt and spice mix (if using) in a medium bowl. Add sugar, egg, and orange zest to the fruit mixture, stir to combine completely, then add the flour mixture and blend gently until fully incorporated. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, smooth the top with back of the spoon, and bake for 75-80 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out mostly clean (a few tender crumbs are ok). Let the cake cool completely, then store in an airtight container for up to one week at room temperature.

Kinky says to let the barmbrack sit a day before enjoying it, as this will allow the flavors to develop. It helps to bake the cake in a dish with its own lid, to make storing easy. The traditional way to eat barmbrack is toasted and slathered with (Irish) butter; it's also very good with softened cream cheese!

Other Irish-inspired treats to enjoy on St. Patrick's Day:
Orange-Currant Shortbread Buttons
Devil's Food Cupcakes with Baileys Buttercream Frosting
Chocolate-Lager Cake with Tangerine Dream Frosting

Notes: Adapted from An Irish Country Cookbook by Patrick Taylor. If you don't want to use whiskey, just increase the amount of tea to 1 1/4 cups, and add in a splash of pure vanilla extract. The basic template of this recipe lends itself to many variations, so be sure to use your favorite flavor tea, dried fruits, and spices. If you use larger fruits like dried apricots, dates, or figs, simply dice or snip them into small pieces before soaking.

>o<

Even Steven: Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Buttercream Frosting

I love it when things work out evenly—and I love it even better when it happens with food! It's pure kitchen magic when you have just enough of this, just enough of that, no waste and no need for a miniscule amount of some obscure ingredient you can't find a use for anywhere else. One of my favorite "even" recipes is a chocolate cake topped with vanilla buttercream. Although it uses just half a stick of butter in the cake batter, the other half is put to work right away in the frosting. None of those awkwardly-wrapped portions of butter slouching forlornly in the fridge, wondering what its purpose could be...even better, you now have a frosted cake to enjoy. Perfect!

Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Buttercream Frosting

For the cake:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
4 Tablespoons butter, softened
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup whole milk or half and half

For the frosting:
4 Tablespoons butter, softened
1 cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan and set aside.

In a medium bowl, mix together flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda and salt until combined, breaking up any lumps as you go. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar together until fluffy, then stir in eggs and vanilla extract. Starting and ending with flour mixture, blend in batches alternately with milk until you have a smooth batter. Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake for about 30-35 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Let cool completely before frosting.

In a small bowl, combine frosting ingredients and blend until completely smooth. Frost cake, slice and serve!

Notes: Instead of vanilla extract in the frosting, use a Tablespoon of any liqueur you enjoy that pairs well with chocolate, such as Irish Creme, Grand Marnier, Chambord, Creme de Menthe, or Kahlua. Instead of a single cake, you can use this recipe to make 12 cupcakes, which only need 18-20 minutes in the oven. For an egg-free variation, see this recipe.

>o<

Orange You Glad: Orange Cake with Rosemary Sugar

A friend's mother makes a tried and true dessert from a clipping she has in her recipe box: Lemon Loaf, a delicious and tangy confection that's tender on the inside while crunchy and sweet on the outside. It's a classic quick bread with a soaking syrup poured over while the loaf is still warm, and I (and everyone in my friend's family) love it. But you know how this mouse thinks, and of course I had to tinker just a bit. I wanted to know how it would work made with orange instead of lemon. After all, they're both citrus, and both excellent flavors in their own right. It was only logical it would be just as delicious as the original. What I didn't know was that the addition of a "secret" ingredient would make the whole thing sublime:

Orange Cake with Rosemary Sugar

For the cake:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
zest of one orange
1/2 cup butter, softened
1 cup rosemary sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/2 cup whole milk, room temperature

For the topping:
1/4 cup rosemary sugar
juice of one orange


Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter an 8x8-inch square (or similar capacity) baking pan and set aside.

In a small bowl, stir together flour, baking soda, salt and orange zest until combined. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, then stir in the eggs. Blend in half the flour mixture, followed by the milk, then the remaining flour mixture and stir until smooth. Scrape batter into prepared pan, smoothing out to the edges, and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30-35 minutes. Remove and let stand while stirring together the sugar and orange juice for the topping, allowing the sugar to dissolve in the juice as much as possible. Using a toothpick, gently prick the entire surface of the cake, then spoon the topping over, allowing it to soak in as you go. Let cool completely and serve.

Notes: The rosemary sugar provides a subtle, piney note that balances the brightness of the orange. Definitely try it if you have it! But please still make this cake with vanilla sugar or regular sugar if you don't. I decided to bake mine in a cake pan, but you can use a standard loaf pan and bake a little longer, watching that the edges don't get too dark. If the cake is still around after a day, I suggest storing covered in the fridge, but remove and let warm to room temperature before serving.

>o<

Fairy Tales: Chocolate-Lager Cake with Tangerine Dream Frosting

We all have fairies in our lives, people who do things for us that make life that much sweeter, richer, and enjoyable—and, if we're lucky, we're able to do the same for them in return. With just a bit of thought and effort, even the simplest things become a special treat. A little everyday magic definitely goes a long way.

Now, it's true I don't drink beer often, but when the Beer Fairy delivered a six-pack of Brooklyn Lager one day, I was thrilled—it reminded me that I'd been wanting to experiment with just such a brew in my cooking and baking. It was perfect, and I couldn't wait to get started. The first thing I tried was adapting this cupcake recipe, and here's how it went:

Chocolate-Lager Cake with Tangerine Dream Frosting

For the cake:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
4 Tablespoons butter, softened
4 Tablespoons brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3/4 cup Brooklyn Lager or other amber-style beer

For the frosting:
4 Tablespoons butter, softened
4 oz. cream cheese, softened
1 cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Zest of one tangerine (or a small orange)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter an 8 or 9-inch round cake pan or deep-dish pie plate and set aside.

In a small bowl, mix together flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt until combined. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugars together until light and fluffy, then stir in vanilla extract. Starting and ending with flour mixture, blend in batches alternately with beer until you have a smooth batter. Scrape batter into prepared pan, spread out evenly and bake for about 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool completely before frosting.

In a medium bowl, combine frosting ingredients and stir until completely smooth. Frost the top of the cake, spreading evenly out to the edges. You can serve right away, but the cake will slice more cleanly if you allow it to chill in the fridge for an hour. Cover and store any leftovers in the fridge as well.

Notes: The sweet, creamy frosting pairs wonderfully with the bitter tang of the cake. However, I felt the cake's texture was a bit dry, so in future I might try using a neutral-tasting oil like grapeseed or extra light olive oil in place of the butter. Use any flavorings you like in the frosting, or simply leave it plain. If you don't have or don't like beer, substitute with freshly brewed (and cooled) black coffee or tea.

Have you been doing any everyday magic in your kitchen? Please share in the comments!

>o<

Winter White: Vanilla-Pear Cake

I have only just recently been introduced to Dorie Greenspan's amazing book, Around My French Table, and it's a such a treasure I can't believe I've managed this long without it. The writing is as enjoyable as the food, and she provides a story for every recipe, incorporating her experiences in France along with helpful tips and variations the reader might like to try. She also confirms what many of us already know intuitively—that good home cooks in France, like good home cooks around the world, use what's available and in season, combined with things they already have on hand, to create simple yet elegant dishes suitable for any occasion.

One such recipe is an apple cake a friend of hers makes, which Ms. Greenspan had to reverse-engineer since the friend does not use a recipe to make it. As a recovering not-writing-recipes-downer myself, I had to try it! But as wonderful as apples are, I associate them with Fall, and wanted something more wintry to match the season. The perfect solution was pears, their sweet perfume mixed with the heady aroma of vanilla, and a bit of cardamom and tangerine zest for balance. A little more tinkering with the mixing method, and I had a delicate, moist confection that will make any Winter day feel just that much warmer:

Vanilla-Pear Cake

Ingredients:
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon tangerine zest
1/2 cup butter, softened
3/4 cup vanilla sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
3 Tablespoons white rum
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 medium pears, ripe but still firm

Butter an 8x8-inch square (or similar capacity) baking pan and set aside.

In a small bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, cardamom and tangerine zest until combined. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy; stir in eggs, rum and vanilla—the batter may look slightly curdled, but that's fine. Add the flour mixture all at once and stir until smooth.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Peel pears, cut off tops and bottoms, quarter, core, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks, adding them to the batter as you go. When done, carefully fold the pieces in, then pour and scrape the batter into your prepared pan. Bake for 50-60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean and the edges are a deep, crunchy golden-brown. Let cool; serve warm or at room temperate. If you have any leftover, let the cake cool completely, cover and refrigerate. Remove and let stand until the cake reaches room temperature again before serving—the flavors will be much more developed. This is a rich, sweet dessert, and a little unsweetened whipped cream or crème fraîche served alongside would be excellent.

Notes: A friend gave me a jar of vanilla sugar a few years ago, and I've been milking that vanilla bean for all it's worth ever since. I refill the jar with plain sugar while there is some vanilla sugar left in the bottom, then screw the lid back on and shake to distribute the vanilla-scented particles evenly. If you don't have vanilla sugar, you may certainly substitute regular granulated sugar for this recipe. The cardamom and zest are optional as well; any spices you like may be used (or omitted entirely), and the zest can just as easily be orange or clementine if you happen to have them. If you don't have or don't want to use the rum (or other spirit of your choice), simply leave it out. Your cake will likely be a bit more firm, but I'm sure just as delicious!

>o<

Tried and True: Lemon-Rosemary Zucchini Bread

For some reason, traditional zucchini bread recipes tend to be strongly spiced with things like cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. These are certainly great flavors, but they completely obscure the delicateness of the squash. I suspect the people who developed these recipes never really liked zucchini at all! So I thought about how I like zucchini best—with things like butter, lemon, and fresh herbs - which also happen to be traditional flavors in many parts of the world. The result was a hit, where all the components served to enhance one another perfectly:

Lemon-Rosemary Zucchini Bread

Ingredients:
One large or two medium zucchini, shredded and excess moisture squeezed out (use a clean towel or strong paper towels—you should have roughly 1 to 1 1/2 cups of zucchini)

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Zest of one lemon
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1/2 cup butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1/2 cup whole-milk sour cream (or plain yogurt)

Prep zucchini per above and set aside. Butter an 8 x 8 inch square pan and preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

In a small bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, lemon zest and rosemary. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy; stir in eggs until combined, then add the zucchini and mix together. Gently stir in half the flour mixture, followed by the sour cream, then the remaining flour mixture until just combined. Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake for about 35 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Serve warm or at room temperature. Cover and refrigerate any leftovers (the flavor is even better the next day).

Notes: Like all quick breads, this is really just cake in sheep's clothing, and as such it is delicious with your coffee in the morning or a spot of tea in the afternoon. For an easy substitute, use one cup fresh blueberries in place of the zucchini. For more sweetness, stir 1/2 cup confectioner's sugar together with just enough fresh lemon juice to drizzle over cooled bread.

>o<

Trying Times: Featherweight Breakfast Cake

As I prepared to work with a group of children to make a family recipe, I felt calm and confident—after all, I had made this particular recipe most of my life. It was easy, delicious, and sure to be a hit! But as the actual day drew near, I knew I needed to refresh my skills, especially because it had been six months since the last time I'd made it. I set aside some time, going through the recipe with extra care and attention, and produced what is still an all-time family favorite:

Featherweight Breakfast Cake

Ingredients:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 cup butter, melted and cooled slightly
1/2 cup whole milk
1 large egg, room temperature

Topping:
2 Tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit; butter an 8-inch square baking pan and set aside.

In a large bowl, stir together flour, sugar, salt and baking powder until fully incorporated. In a 2-cup measuring cup, measure milk and stir in melted butter and egg; add wet ingredients all at once to dry ingredients, and mix until just combined and all the dry ingredients are moistened. Scrape into prepared pan, smoothing the top out to the edges. In a small bowl, stir together topping ingredients, and sprinkle evenly over batter. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Can be served warm.

Notes: This recipe uses a fair amount of baking powder, which gives the cake an extra-fluffy interior. As always, don't feel constrained by the title—this is just as good in the afternoon as it is for breakfast!

>o<

Opposites Attract: Individual Flourless Chocolate Cakes

Although I ultimately decided on this recipe to bring to cookbook club, the smitten kitchen cookbook's "tiny but intense chocolate cake" was a very close runner-up. It was everything the white chocolate pudding was not—deep, dark, rich, and unapologetically sinful. During the course of the cookbook club meeting, however, I learned that one of the other members had made that recipe to try at home. Not having the six-inch baking pan required, she very sensibly divided the batter into individual servings using a muffin tin, adjusting the baking time for the smaller size. She said it worked like a charm—and since I don't have that size pan, either, it definitely worked for me!

Individual Flourless Chocolate Cakes

Ingredients
6 Tablespoons butter
1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips
3 large eggs, separated
1/4 cup vanilla sugar (or use regular sugar and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract)
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Berries for garnish, if desired

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a standard muffin tin with eight muffin liners, and fill each of the empty cavities with about 1/2 an inch of water. Set aside.

In a small pan, melt butter gently over low heat. Once melted, turn off heat and stir in chips until they are also melted and the mixture is smooth. Let cool slightly. In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar together until very creamy and pale. Add the cooled chocolate mixture carefully, stirring to combine. In a large bowl, beat egg whites and salt together until firm peaks form (I used a hand-crank beater, but feel free to use an electric mixer!). Stir in 1/3 of the whites into the chocolate batter to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites until just combined. Divide the batter evenly among the eight liners (about 3/4 full each) and bake for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out fairly clean (there might be a few crumbs). Let cool for 10-15 minutes, or cool to room temperature and chill before serving.

Notes: Adapted from the smitten kitchen cookbook. The amount of sugar is reduced, and chocolate chips (instead of chopping a bar of chocolate) were used since that's what I had on hand. In the original recipe, the butter was not only melted, but browned as well. Even with my digressions, these are lovely little cakes, and pair perfectly with fresh berries—although I wouldn't say no to a scoop of ice cream :-)

>o<

A Sticky Situation: Sticky Toffee Pudding

So I'd invited a friend for dinner, and while I wondered what to make for the main course, I knew I wanted to serve something special for dessert. I thought about Sticky Toffee Pudding, but there was a slight hitch - my recipe makes a full 9 x 13 pan of the stuff, which (even for me) is a bit excessive for just two people. But I really liked the idea, and hadn't had it in a long time myself, so there was only one solution - try making a smaller batch! Thankfully, it worked a treat:

Sticky Toffee Pudding

For the date cake:
1/2 cup pitted dates, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup boiling water
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)
3 Tablespoons butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the sticky toffee sauce:
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 Tablespoon butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Stir the chopped dates and baking soda together in a small bowl; add boiling water and mix to combine. Let stand while preparing the other ingredients.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter an 8 x 8-inch square baking pan. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, salt and cardamom, if using. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, then mix in egg and vanilla. Stir in flour mixture until combined, then blend in the date mixture until the batter is smooth. Scrape into prepared pan and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until evenly golden on top and a toothpick comes out clean.

While the cake is baking, combine the brown sugar, cream, butter and salt for the sauce in a large saucepan. Stir to melt and combine over medium-low heat, then bring to a boil over medium heat. Continue to boil, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla.

When the cake comes out of the oven, let stand for about 5 minutes, then prick all over with a toothpick. Pour the sauce evenly over the cake, using the back of a spoon to spread it around (you can reheat the sauce gently over low heat if it has started to thicken while waiting for the cake). Serve warm or at room temperature with additional heavy cream or vanilla ice cream.

Notes: The cake can certainly be made on its own and served with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream; the toffee sauce can absolutely be made separately and poured over ice cream as well! Though I haven't yet tried it, I imagine other dried fruits could be substituted, like apple, pear, or even fig - sticky figgy pudding for the holidays??? :-)

>o<